21 on 21

 

Nov 20 - 24


Beginning of the Trace Parkway


On our way into Natchez on the 21st we observed 2 important things (to us). First was the start of the Trace. Second was the temperature on Smiley's dash - 21 degrees Celcius on the 21st of November (hence today's title). Because the American Thanksgiving falls on Thursday Nov 22nd the park was filling quickly with hunters (hunting is allowed in the park forests). We walked on the roads so our fellow campers didn't have to explain our premature departure in Mississippi.

Took the above to remind us how much the Daughters of the American Revolution did to help the Trace Parkway become reality. Thanks to all - we loved the trip down the Trace and recommend it to anyone wanting away from busy highways and a return to more peaceful travelling.



Didn't see any daredevil gamblers or quick witted lawyers in Natchez but we did get a great walk downtown, a view of the Mississippi from the hill, a shot of the casino boat berthed at Under-the-Hill, and a number of antebellum homes. Here a a few pictorial momentos:

OK - not historical but it is seasonal
 

Are the extra gangplanks for losers or winners?

Didn't get the name (shame)

Sad events sometimes generate magnificent songs.
These Mississippi Blues plaques are numerous and informative.

Stanton Hall



After the downtown walk we jumped back into Smiley and drove out to Longwoods - a magnificent octagon shaped beauty on 90+ acres in south Natchez. But here we found beauty is skin deep - only the basement is finished - construction was interrupted by the civil war. 

This exterior...

looks like this inside.

When the money stopped so did the work.
Workers dropped their tools and left.

Locust Hill

We still had one more place to see before leaving the Natchez area for the Big Easy. About 15 miles up the Trace is a restored "stand" (overnight stop) manned by Debi and Scott - National Park volunteers just brimming with historic knowledge. While not majestic or architecturally impressive this was one of the best historic sites on our trip to date.

 

Scott in period costume. Tried not to provoke him (armed)

Heading out tomorrow (25th) to Fontainebleau State Park on the north side of Lake Ponchartrain. Just about 1/2 hour to New Orleans over the causeway. No snow in the forecast.

Chasing Summer

Nov 17-19

Travelling south on the Trace gave us the chance to turn back the clock on the seasons – naked trees and chilly air outside at the beginning in Kentucky (just like home)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

lead to a partly leaved forest in Tennessee.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Later, after we crossed the Tennessee river

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

we began to see summer’s leftovers still on the trees in gorgeous golden sunshine. 

 

 

 

 

 

(this is just before leaving Alabama for Mississippi).

 

 

Around 5 in the afternoon on the 18^th Norene took this shot of the evergreening forest about ½ hour north of our planned stop for the night at the Jeff Busby campground at mile 193.1 (numbering from 1 at Natchez). Just made it as darkness fell and we parked in the last spot. Bit relieved since you can’t stay overnight at rest stops or attractions in Mississippi. 

  

Now that we had a glimpse of summer we wanted more so it was a big push the next day to score this nearly perfect summer shot about an hour away from Natchez State Park  – our home base for the next six days.

 

 

 

 Had enough yet? It's possible you may not share my fascination with reversing the seasons ..... so here are some highlights on the journey from Birdsong Hollow (mile 440) to Natchez State Park (mile 10.4):

 

The Double Arch bridge at Birdsong Hollow gets a lot of well deserved attention and sometimes (it appears) a bit of vertical traffic. (see the blue sign)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Heading down to Jackson Falls we’re like kids at play. On the way back up I learned how to fake a casual grin while panting.

 

 

Before steam riverboats took traders upriver the “Kaintucks” walked the original Natchez Trace from Natchez to Nashville – the good parts looked like this.

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meriwether Lewis met his premature end on the Trace.

 

 

This poignant “broken shaft “ memorial was erected here to honour this intrepid adventurer.

 

PharrMounds

 

 

 

 

 

Yes those are the mounds.

 

 

 

Maybe I should get a zoom lens.

 

 

 

 

 

So Tupelo is not just a town – it’s a tree!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And these trees live in a swamp....

 

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And they have weird babies (the little pointy things are new trees).

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

Trust

You are greeted at the top of the Trace with signage that warns the minimum height of overpasses is 14’ 5” (we need 12' 4"). You believe until confronted with a bridge that can’t possibly be that high. You keep driving as you approach, wink at your navigator, hunch down and wait for the impact. On the other side you say something manly like “See – I told you there was lots of clearance”

Turning our backs to the Turnpikes

Nov 16-17

Camping World here we come. Just off I-65 at Bowling Green Kentucky is our holy grail of camping stuff. CW was like a candy store (or Costco) to us. Got out while we still had a few bucks left with lots of new essentials: surge suppressor, water filter, stove cover, etc.. Still no internet connections or phone – we’re feeling a bit isolated but plan to fix the problem in Memphis.

Back on the interstate. Norene observes that I’m having less fun than expected being constantly passed by trucks and makes a brilliant  suggestion. Instead of continuing to Memphis Tennessee for a little sightseeing, then heading to Jackson Mississippi to get on the Natchez Trace Parkway why not jump on the Trace at it’s northern end just west of Nashville. Sorry Elvis. Goodbye interstates.

With the help of a friendly gent in the Tennessee Welcome Center we avoided Nashville and found the northern terminus of the Trace (part of the National Park System) which is a 2 lane, 444 mile long, 50 mph max stretch of beautiful scenery ending in Natchez Mississippi. We stopped at Birdsong Hollow (mile 438) and stayed for the night. The Trace is very popular with cyclists and in the very chilly morning we were surrounded by men in tights and helmets.

Days are getting warmer but not far enough south yet.

Our objective today (the 17th) is to get to a park with water and electric facilities so we can de-winterize (summerize?) the big box so it can be more than a bed and fridge on wheels. Decided to stop partway at Collinwood to visit the Welcome Center and also to get some gas (there are no gas stations or stores on the Trace – very cool). The Welcome Center is a lovely older building staffed by friendly folks who suggested we might like to drop into the next room to watch the dulcimer concert. Huh?

 

A delightful hour later we pulled up stakes, filled up and grabbed a couple of ice cream cones (yeah it’s now ice cream weather – 65+F). Off to Tishomingo State Park and summer! Arrived around 1pm and connected the umbilicals. Running water! Real a/c electricity! (not that dc stuff). Hot (actually lukewarm) showers! Nice concrete pads and lots of room – ‘specially since the park was sparsely populated. Here’s our neighbour:

 

 

In case you’re interested these are very cheap places to stay - $18 a night for electric and water. We seniors pay $13! Ontario Provincial parks are typically $43($38) for electricity alone. Ontario could take a tip from Mississippi in this department.

Before you get the impression we never got out of our seats on the way down I should mention that we stopped many times to take in the sights and took a lot of pictures. When we get to a more stable wifi spot than a Mickey D drive through we’ll post an album or two since we promised some pictures in return for having to wade thru this writing.

But it's a dry cold

Nov 14-15

But it’s a dry cold.

 

 

Who cares? Too cold. Got to go south.

 

 

 

 

 

Before you leave on a long trip Mom always said you should put on clean underwear and make sure to comb your hair. Norene took this to heart so she put in to Trudy’s new salon in Alliston on the way to Hughes RV in Orangeville (for a little jack warranty work – done well as usual). After a radical clip (she already had the underwear installed) she now has get up and go hair. I shot this artful (awful?) pic of the “before” – you’ll see plenty of “after” later.

 

 

Hughes finished their work quickly so we decided to hit the road, planning to drop into a Wal-Mart in Windsor for the for the night. Discovered that the Enroute on highway 401 allows overnight rv stays (fantastic idea Enroute!). We slept under about 60 lbs of covers – not a bad idea since the morning interior temperature was 41F. Not far enough south yet.

Following an uneventful border crossing we pointed the Winnie’s nose south on I-75 and discovered 2 things about interstates; 1) there are more semis on the road than stars in the sky and 2) we are the slowest (at 50-55 mph) vehicle on the road – in this picture the Oversize Load just finished passing us.

 

 

Smiley seems happy back there and the humans are starting to adjust. Intended to stay at the Flying J south of Hillview Kentucky but there was no space for us so we moved to the WalMart in nearby Sheppardsville. Another cold night (29F). Not far enough south yet.

Merry NovBirthWedMas

It all started with a mother's desire to have a physical "Christmas" with her babies - before we head out. This new tradition is known as "Novmas". Same tired old plastic tree, same lovely "Mimosas in the morning" reward. Same fabulous shopping and organization efforts by Norene, excellent cooking by Chef Rob (with a skilled assist by Jeremy) and an encore of mediocre photos by Glenn (click here for proof).

Since we were already celebrating Christmas early why not throw in another birthday? Will turns 9 in December so the perfect end to NovMas dinner turned out to be Will's favourite ice cream cake. Now we're up to   NovBirth(day)mas.

Trish & Dave, Pete & Sue and Stan & Sue were scheduled to drop by for a drink after they went to the NWBUC turkey dinner. Turns out Trish & Dave just got married (sly devils didn't want a big fuss so hardly anyone knew) so we drank a toast to their newly wedded status (couldn't keep their hands off each other!) so we threw in the "Wed(ding)" to complete a new time honored tradition now fondly known as NovBirthWedMas.

We plan to hold NovBirthWedMas every year about this time (early November). Should work pretty well since mom will still want her Christmas and Will should still want another birthday. Not sure who's getting married tho'

SNOW (ick!) on November 2nd!

Here are a few shots to look at next next fall when we're trying to decide when to leave for the sunny south. Click to see the horror
Looks like November 15th might be a bit late this year.
Global warming?